Crisp, fruity and versatile: The best of fine Austrian whites
OUR expert goes on a voyage of discovery to hunt out fine Austrian whites.
Our expert goes on a voyage of discovery to hunt out fine Austrian whites
Austria makes lots of wine, yet it isn’t all that well known here in Britain.
It deserves to be more popular, because many of the wines are absolutely delicious and offer excellent value for money, too. Austria makes some quality red wines but, for me, its real strength is its whites, with grüner veltliner the star turn, a variety that it specialises in. From a pricey but rich and fruity wine to a bargain bottle brimming with citrus zip, my magnificent seven will really hit the spot.
Domaine Wachau Weissenkirchen Grüner Veltliner Federspiel 2015, Wachau £11.99 but £9.99 each for six, Majestic, 12.5% alcohol
This is pretty and aromatic with floral citrus fruits, coupled with some trademark white pepper that’s typical of this grape variety. It has smooth, dry, textured fruit with plenty of purity and focus.
Markus Huber Grüner Veltliner Single Estate 2015, Traisental £10.49, Waitrose, 12.5% alcohol
There’s a fruity quality to this white, which has zesty citrus and white-pepper flavours. There’s also a touch of white peach and yellow plum richness, and it finishes off dry and crisp.
Sainsbury’s Taste The Difference Riesling 2015, Niederösterreich £7, Sainsbury’s, 12.5% alcohol
Lively with the nice citrussy drive that you’d expect from riesling, this has a slightly honeyed, grapey rounded character and just a hint of sweetness. It’s deliciously fruity with a hint of seriousness.
Etzinger Grüner Veltliner 2015 Kamptal £7.99, Co-op, 12% alcohol
Lively, fresh and grapey, this white shows lemony fruit backed up by high acidity. It’s a crisp, appealing grüner veltliner that’s versatile enough for every occasion.
Jurtschitsch Stein Grüner Veltliner 2015, Kamptal£11.99, thewinesociety.com (01438 741177), 12.5% alcohol
From the rocky, terraced slopes of the Kamptal region, this is a serious expression of grüner with some rich peach and apricot notes as well as a stony, citrus core.
Waitrose Grüner Veltliner 2015, Niederösterreich £7.99, Waitrose, 12% alcohol
Here’s a fresh, lively white with hints of white pepper alongside crisp citrus fruits. Linear and bright, this has some zip to it.
Zillinger In Haiden Traminer 2014, Niederösterreich £19.50, therealwineco.co.uk (01544 267314), 13% alcohol
A deeply coloured wine, this has an aromatic nose of papaya, canteloupe melon and quince, with grapey, melon flavours and some crystalline fruits. With a good acidity, it’s a rich wine that smells sweet but is dry. Pricey but worth it.