Restaurant review: Hamburgers from heaven at London's Bar Boulud
In her regular column, Judge's Judgements, Lady Barbara Judge gives her verdict on French chef Daniel Boulud's upscale hamburger restaurant...
EVERY once in a while a devoted Anglophile like me has a craving for carnivore calories, and a wish to find a real old-fashioned American hamburger with all the trimmings.
Naturally I headed to Bar Boulud in the Mandarin Hotel, London, – which I must say, is not actually the traditional burger on which I grew up in New York, but a more European version, which is more in accordance with my life, now that I am living and working in London and advising on energy policy.
Well, this particular Friday night my American friend and I put all our energy into devouring two magnificent hamburgers.
Hers was called the “Frenchie” with a traditional beef patty, confit of pork belly, morbier cheese and tomato confit, all on a fluffy pepper bun.
I, on the other hand, was even more adventurous, and had the famous “BB” burger, which consists of a beef patty, topped with foie gras, red wine braised short ribs, and truffle, all on a black onion seeded bun.
A truly gourmet hamburger if there ever was one.
The memories of how spectacularly delicious these were is still vibrant in my thoughts as they were clearly a total treat for both the eyes and the palette.
Hamburgers are becoming the “new thing” these days with new chains popping up all around town, and I have tried them all – but clearly for me, Bar Boulud is by far the best.
Not only is the menu varied – so if you want sausages – or pates or other delicious French bistro food, it is all on offer.
In addition it is just chic enough to take overseas guests and give them a buzzy dining-out experience, rather than being in a loud hamburger joint wit ha lot of screaming children.
In addition, the service was lovely.
Waiters and waitresses are easy to find – and rather than avoiding your eye (as many waiters seem to be trained to do) they are attentive and efficient and effusive.
Now I hope you remember, I am a dessertaholic and it is here that Bar Boulud really shines.
It has lovely macaroons and ice cream in exotic flavours together with freshly baked madeleines.
In addition, there are delicious unusual French cakes and a raspberry soufflé which is, as the Americans say, “to die for.”
Truly I haven’t seen so many lovely and different desserts on a menu for a long time.
Indeed, next time I go I just might eat dessert as a starter, just to make sure I don’t get too full or fat from the fabulous fare beforehand.
In fact, eating dessert first (which I have done once or twice before) has to be a wonderful free sin, and isn’t that what we all want – at least from time to time.
Bar Boulud, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge, London (Tel 0207 201 3899)