European gem that rivalled Greece 'spoiled by greed and tourism' - where to go instead
Located between the Ionian Sea and the majestic Ceaunian Mountains, Himarë offers tourists some relief from the crowded coast in gorgeous Ksamil.
Ksamil, Albania was branded a hidden gem of Europe last summer, but the sought-after village has since earned quite a different reputation.
The latest Tripadvisor reviews have branded the coastal destination as "spoiled by greed and tourism", claiming that its title as "the Maldives of Europe couldn't be further from the truth".
Its once quiet and unsung beaches, which visitors say are still "beautiful", have filled up with tourists and back-to-back sunbeds, with few 'secret' spots left to discover in the area.
Though Ksamil remains a cheaper alternative to nearby Greece, whose border is just a 1.5-hour drive away, there's a less crowded alternative north of Sarandë - the main port city on the Albanian Riviera.
Himarë is a small town on the south coast of the country with an array of spectacular beaches just a short drive away.
Sharing travel advice for the Albanian destination on their blog Along Dusty Roads, globe-trotters Andrew and Emily said: "When it comes to the Albanian coast, most travellers need to choose where they'll base themselves for a few days or longer.
"For us, Himarë is one of the better options. A small coastal town with a beach, rather than a beach with a modern tourism development growing around it, life revolves around the summer season."
The travelling duo admitted that while Himarë can seem a bit rough around the edges in parts, the lack of fancy hotels and large resorts means there's so much untouched space to be discovered.
Emily and Andrew noted: "We think Himarë is such a great choice as a base for travellers looking to enjoy and explore the Albanian Riviera, especially if you're doing a road trip with a rental car. Depending on your travel style and what else you’re doing in the country, beach lovers could honestly spend five nights here without visiting the same place twice."
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Beaches in Himarë
Spile Beach is the main beach in Himarë, right next to the city centre. It’s easily accessible and well placed to some of the best restaurants in town.
Valentino Restaurant is top-rated based on Google Reviews, with an impressive 4.7 out of five stars. Visitors have raved about the "polite service" and "very fresh" food, which can be enjoyed while looking out onto the bay.
Gjiri i Akuariumit (Aquarium Beach) is "the most beautiful beach in Himare", according to travel bloggers at The Travel Folk. They warned that the beach is hidden away and only accessible via Livadhi beach or Himare centre, or by 4×4.
Speaking of her visit to the remote spot, The Travel Folk founder, Jenoa Matthes said: "It feels like a slice of Albanian paradise, with its white sand and rocks that create a small cove. Make sure to bring your food, drink, and towel, as there are no facilities here."
The Himarë old town is another place worth exploring, located atop a rocky hill overlooking the sea. It can be reached by wandering through the town’s narrow and winding streets, which are lined with traditional stone walls and houses.
Many reviews of the region claim that the unchanged streets transport you back to ancient times, with ruins of the 3,500-year-old castle left untouched.
It's free to enter so you can take your time exploring the ancient site while soaking up sweeping views of the mountains and the Ionian sea below.
Cafe Butterly is ideal for a drink and snack, thanks to its convenient location right next to the castle. This cafe is locally owned by and sells a very small, but authentic selection of cakes in addition to drinks.
