I visited the pretty town with UK's best high street and 200 shops - I'd go back right now
EXCLUSIVE: The town offers a great variety of independent shops as well as its own brewery.
When people ask me which UK town I'd return to in a heartbeat, one place always comes to mind: Lewes. Nestled in the South Downs National Park and just about an hour from London by train, this East Sussex town feels like a world apart from the capital. It blends countryside calm with a buzzing independent high street, giving it a charm that feels almost continental.
Driving in from nearby Eastbourne, I genuinely felt as though I had stumbled into a hidden French or Italian town. With its hilly streets lined with historic buildings and independent shops spilling onto every corner, Lewes has an atmosphere that instantly slows you down. Despite having only around 20,000 residents, it remains remarkably vibrant thanks to its independent and "slightly irreverent" character, as one local told me.
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I visited in November, when the colder weather meant fewer tourists, but the town still felt alive. Even outside peak season, the high street was busy with people moving between independent stores - a mix of bookshops, delis, vintage boutiques and artisan traders that give Lewes its reputation as one of Britain's best shopping towns.
It is often said that the town has around 200 independent shops, and walking through it, that feels entirely believable. One of the highlights of my visit was the antiques scene, which is among the strongest I've seen anywhere in the UK.
I spent time in the famous Lewes Flea Market, an antiques store packed with vintage furniture, collectables, jewellery and curios spread across multiple floors. It is the kind of place where you can easily lose an hour without realising it. I spoke to its manager David Skeet, who is confident that vintage retail is not only surviving but thriving.
Asked whether online shopping poses a threat, he was clear: "No - the absolute opposite. I think the high street will eventually disappear forever, except there'll be charity shops, coffee shops and Amazon collection points," he said. "This kind of shopping is more fun, and everyone, including me, buys the boring stuff online."
Elsewhere in town, places like Cliffe Antiques Centre continue that tradition, offering everything from antique silver and ceramics to decorative furniture. There is also the specialist clock dealer W.F. Bruce Antiques, which reflects just how niche and knowledgeable some of Lewes's independent traders are.
I also visited Closet & Botts, a boutique founded by old school friends who left their jobs, travelled around Europe in a van, and later channelled that experience into opening their shop on Lewes High Street. They told me that although the character of the trade has shifted, with fewer international dealers attending local antique fairs, they still believe Lewes has "the best high street" thanks to its local spirit that they love.
My last stop was Harvey's Brewery, which has been brewing on its current site since 1838. The historic place remains proudly rooted in Sussex, sourcing locally and keeping distribution close to home. Head brewer Miles Jenner told me Lewes "applauds individuality", a philosophy reflected in the brewery's refusal to become a national brand.
But Lewes' appeal doesn't stop at shopping. The town is known for its links to witchcraft and local folklore, as well as the famous Lewes Bonfire - one of Britain's biggest and most dramatic Bonfire Night celebrations.
There is plenty of history too, with Lewes Castle offering sweeping views over the South Downs, while Anne of Cleves House gives a glimpse into the town's Tudor past.
With countryside walks on its doorstep as well, there is plenty to do beyond browsing the high street, and I can't wait to return there in warmer weather.
