'I visited the underrated UK harbour town that rivals its much more famous neighbour'

Picturesque Tenby has long been one of Wales's most popular harbour towns, with 13th-century town walls, sandy shorelines, and sea caves.

However, its undeniable charm draws huge crowds, and around two million people visit Tenby every year, the majority of whom stay in and around the town.

I visited a less-crowded and underrated harbour town in Pembrokeshire that rivals Tenby for food and activities – Milford Haven.

From a 17th-century Quaker whaling town and shipbuilding outpost to a modern marina, Milford Haven is now a chic destination with a renovated waterfront packed with indie shops and restaurants.

Formed by a ria, [or drowned valley], the Milford waterway is known for being one of the deepest natural harbours in the world and is still Wales’ largest fishing port and home to the local in-shore fleet.

As part of a multi-million-pound redevelopment programme, Milford Waterfront and Marina are now fast gaining a reputation as an emerging spot in Wales. Today, the harbour is a mixed-use space for locals and tourists, featuring a swish hotel, floating cabin accommodations, shops, and restaurants.

Nearby, you’ll also find golden sand beaches and the 186-mile Pembrokeshire coast path with miles of coastal trails. Here's why you should visit Milford Haven Marina to skip the Tenby crowds and have a chilled-out seaside break.

Wander the Marina

The boat-filled marina offers plenty of bars, independent shops, and cafes to explore. History and heritage are also thoughtfully displayed through walking trails and the volunteer-run Milford Haven Museum.

The museum tells the story of Milford Haven and its proud maritime heritage. Inside, you can explore the exhibits and collections covering the Nantucket Quaker Whalers, the fishing industry, and the nautical town's crucial role in supporting the world’s energy demands. 

Wander further along the waterfront, and you’ll find boutique shopping, cafes, ice cream, seafood restaurants and even a chocolate shop.

Kayak along the shoreline

At Milford Beach Activity Centre, you can experience stand-up paddleboarding and kayaking from the Hot Water Slip and explore the historic Milford Haven Waterway shorelines surrounding Milford Haven.

This local business operates out of a blue shipping container overlooking Milford Beach and offers guided tours, stand-up paddle board rentals, and kayak hire.

Go on a guided tour of the estuary with their experienced guides to better understand the long history of the area, including the Vikings that settled here, the Welsh fishing industry, the town’s military connection, and past industries.

Explore the Pembrokeshire Coast Path

Milford Haven is a fantastic base for exploring the Pembrokeshire coast at any time of year. Discover coastal hikes, sandy beaches, indie cafes, wildlife and watersports.

Walking the Pembrokeshire Coast Path is one of the best ways to appreciate the natural beauty of Milford Haven and its surroundings.

This trail stretches 186 miles along the rugged coastline, offering impressive ocean and rugged cliff views.

A popular route is the stretch from Milford Haven to Dale, which takes you past picturesque coves, sandy beaches, and charming villages. Keep an eye out for wildlife, as the area is home to various seabirds, seals, and even dolphins.

Discover sandy beaches

Broad Haven Beach

A short drive from Milford Haven, Broad Haven Beach is a wide, sandy expanse perfect for a relaxing day by the sea. This family-friendly beach offers excellent facilities, including lifeguards during summer, making it a perfect spot for swimming and sunbathing when the Welsh weather is kind.

Marloes Sands

Marloes Sands, about 25 minutes from Milford Haven, is known for its dramatic cliffs, golden sands, and crystal-clear waters. It's great for walking, swimming, and exploring unique rock formations and tidal pools.

Dale Beach

Located about 20 minutes from Milford Haven, Dale Beach is a haven for water sports enthusiasts. The calm, sheltered waters of Dale Bay are perfect for kayaking, sailing, and windsurfing.

Stay in floating cabins

For a truly unique stay in the area, you can book a stay in swish, floating cabins among the boats moored at Milford Marina. The Floatels sleep two and come with an en suite shower room, swish furnishings, a private balcony, and floor-to-ceiling windows to enjoy the best views of the water and spectacular sunsets.

The unique feature is that the cabins are right on the water, so you can step out onto your balcony with your morning coffee and be greeted with marina views and the salty sea air all around you.

Inside, you'll also find a range of holiday essentials, including a Smart TV, WiFi, coffee and tea facilities, a small fridge, fluffy dressing gowns and a welcome gift of chocolate truffles made at Trwffl, located on Milford Waterfront.

One of the stand-out features in the cabin is the private balcony that overlooks the water. At night, the marina lights up with the glow of the surrounding restaurants, boat lights and string lights that adorn the marina. Wrap up and enjoy the night time atmosphere and changing dusk colours right on your water-level balcony.

Have a seafood dinner at Dulse

Housed inside the Tŷ Hotel Milford Waterfront, Dulse is one of the best places in Pembs for delicious seafood. The stylish restaurant is named after Pembrokeshire’s edible and versatile seaweed that grows abundantly around the rocky coastline.

Decked out in soothing shades of deep-sea blue contrasting with muted tones, the light-filled restaurant strives to provide a relaxing and memorable dining experience with big marina views from floor-to-ceiling windows and locally sourced seafood. 

Typical dishes include Dulse Welsh Tea Hot Smoked Salmon, Market Fish in Tenby Harbwr Beer Batter and Miso and Welsh Honey Marinated Prawn Salad.  

Sunset drinks at Foam

A lively spot with panoramic views of the Milford Haven Waterway, dog-friendly Foam is known for its afternoon tea, indulgent champagne brunch, and sun-trap terrace ­– perfect for sunset drinks with a view.

Foam was originally the Cosalt Ship Chandler’s building in 1907 and has been thoroughly modernised into a stylish café bar that caters to the fancy brunch and late-night cocktail crowd.

The dinner menu also features all your favourite pub classics, including grill items, Atlantic ale cod, and a range of burgers made with buns within their own bakehouse ‘sugar loaf’.

Their themed grazing packages can also be enjoyed with friends in Pembrokeshire’s first al fresco ‘dining domes,’ which enjoy impressive 360-degree panoramic views of the waterfront.