The pretty little island in Italy that locals want to keep a secret

The small island of Ischia, 17.9 square miles to be exact, lies at the northern end of the Gulf of Naples, about 19 miles from the city of Naples. For those who long for a natural green Greek island, covered in trees, vines and exotic plants, the largest of the Phlegrean Islands may be the perfect Italian alternative.

With Mount Vesuvius visible in the background, Ischia too is a volcanic island, with bubbling thermal waters beneath its surface. In Sorgeto cave, found in a bay of the same name, hot springs spray water into the air, while at San Montano bay one can relax in one of the 29 thermal pools dotted amid greenery and across the cliffside.

At Cavascura, a “spa” beyond Maronti beach - made famous by Elena Ferrante’s novels - you can soak in thermal water in a tub carved from a cliff in Roman times.

The island is almost entirely mountainous, the highest peak being Mount Epomeo at 788 metres.

The island is densely populated, with its streets so small that people get around on golf carts. This only helps add to the cosiness and unique character of the island, which is authentically Italian.

For those longing for a natural island with extensive greenery, reminiscent of natural Greek islands, Ischia may be the perfect place. At Giardini la Mortella, one can explore five acres of exotic gardens, created by Susana Walton, wife of composer William Walton in the 1950s. The island as a whole is blanketed in green - with trees, vines and exotic plants.

The surrounding waters are just as rich as the land, providing a rich and healthy habitat for around seven species of whale and dolphin including gigantic fin and sperm whales.

Ischia is one of the country’s most affordable destinations, now the destination for Europeans on a budget and Neapolitans looking to escape the city for the weekend. Indeed, it is only an hour’s ferry from Naples.

This was not always the case, however. In the 1950s and 60s, it was seen as Hollywood-on-Sea, welcoming Sophia Loren as a regular and Luchino Visconti, the famous Italian filmmaker, also owning a villa.

Even as a budget destination, parts of Ischia have been developed to cater to more high-end travellers. The Times referred to the “new” Ischia as “a luxury destination to rival its neighbour Capri, off Italy’s southwest coast”. In 2019, Pellicano Group, known for owning five-star hotels in unobvious locations, helped reboot the island. It took over a hotel and spa built in a 16th-century watchtower on a private northwestern promontory.

For those wishing to have a more unique experience, one could also stay in a wing of the Castello Aragonese, a 15th-century castle built on an islet of Ischia Ponte, part of which has been converted into a hotel where you can sleep in old monks’ cells.

On Tripadvisor, one visitor to Castello Aragonese described it as a must-see attraction in Ischia: “Very special location with 2500 years of History, with an outstanding view over the bay. Privately owned and managed with evident care, the castle is a joy to visit.”

Writing about Mortella Gardens, another said: “The visit to the Gardens of Sir and Lady Walton was an experience of the senses thanks to the scents and colors of exotic plants (from Africa and South America in the garden in the Valley and from Asia in the garden in the hills). Priceless view on the western part of the island that you can enjoy from the resort Zaro.”