Characteristic and robust: Seven of the best rustic wines
TURN country fare into a feast with this surprisingly sophisticated selection
Rustic recipes cry out for wines with a robust character of their own.
In the past, “rustic” wines were well worth avoiding, but modern viniculture has smoothed off many a rough edge without losing local character, and most regions now offer something that goes perfectly with hearty, uncomplicated, country cooking.
From left:
Torres Gran Sangre de Toro 2010, Catalonia, Spain £12.49, The Co-operative, 14% alcohol
This is a seriously attractive wine, with fresh raspberry and cherry fruit, complex spice characters and a hint of roast coffee. Unlike some Spanish reds, it’s not too sweetly fruited, and it would make an excellent partner for this week’s beetroot burgers.
Piccini Chianti Classico Riserva 2009, Tuscany, Italy £11.49, Morrisons, 13% alcohol
This pleasing chianti has just a hint of rustic robustness, alongside lovely sweet cherry and damson fruit. With a slight bitterness that makes it a good food wine, it would be good with the carrot, shallot and prune tagine.
Winemaker’s Lot Santa Rita Pinot Noir 2013, Central Valley, Chile £5.99, Tesco, 13.5% alcohol
With notes of mint, herbs and ginger underlying the sweet berry fruits, this is a supple, drinkable pinot noir with a distinctly Chilean twist. Great value for money, it would be delicious with the puy lentils and aubergines.
Tikves Smederevka Rkaciteli 2013, Macedonia £7, Marks & Spencer, 12% alcohol
This is a lovely, precise, lemony white from Macedonia, a country that’s increasingly making interesting wines. With a bit of pear richness and hints of citrus pith, it would go well with the sweet potato frittata.
From left:
Asda Picpoul de Pinet Blanc Sec 2013, Languedoc, France£6, Asda, 12.5% alcohol
Bright and fruity, with some citrus, pear and melon notes, this is a really attractive example of the increasingly fashionable southern French white.
Auzells 2013, Costers del Segre, Spain £10.50, thewinesociety.com (01438 741177), 12.5% alcohol
Wine maker Tomàs Cusiné is developing quite a reputation for this lovely blend of several white grape varieties. With pure apple, pear and citrus fruit, balanced by a stony, mineral quality, it’s a versatile food wine.
Domaine des Aubuisières Vouvray Cuvée de Perruches 2013, Loire, France £11.15, Majestic, 12.5% alcohol
Dry for a vouvray, with flavours of herbs, straw, nuts and citrus, plus lively acidity, this characterful white would work well with the quiches.